Ingress of oxygen into the cask
Step 4
We give this as a separate step because of its importance. Probably nowhere else will you find this step recommended, much less demanded. We feel that for Real Ale to develop it full potential in the glass there must be some air introduced into the cask. It was these flavors that we found so elusive when we began but have conquered so successfully. Before you accuse us of heresy please hear us out.
Yes, air contains oxygen and, yes, oxygen oxidizes beer into undesireable flavors. No, allowing a limited amount of air into a cask of Real Ale does not oxidize beer. We feel that because of the live yeast in Real Ale, the introduction of oxygen in limited quantities results in accentuation of malt flavors and development of charactericistic flavors that are so desireable in this fresh product. If air is not allowed into the cask the beer will essentially stay the same over its drinkable life. It will not develop into a truly remarkable and different product that is the hallmark of Real Ale. The CAMRA book Cellarmanship does not mention the addition of air to a cask as useful for flavor development, they just feel that using a cask breather leads to sloppiness on the part of the cellarman. They also concede that the use of a cask breather is a necessary evil in low volume outlets. We feel that Oxygen is necessary for flavor but must be regulated to prevent oxidation.
We found that our Real Ales did not taste like the fine British examples we tasted until we allowed some air into the cask, and waited. It takes about 2 to 4 days for the limited air introuduced into the cask to show its full expression, but when it does....a single sip brings memories of England flooding back. If anybody is really interested in reproducing British Real Ale, the step described below is essential.

We use a quick disconnect from a welding supply outlet to make the connections onto our CO2 tank. When we draw out the first 2 or 3 whole english pints of beer from a new cask this connection is as shown at left. The cask breather is allowed to breath in "Real Air". After the first 2 to 3 pints are drawn, the connection is closed and CO2 is drawn in for the remainder of the cask. It will take 1 to 4 days for the ale to change, but you will know it when it does, the malt flavor development can be really quite dramatic on some beers. If you don't like it today, wait till tomorrow the beer will continue to change for weeks.